The Production of
Parmigiano Reggiano
From raw milk to PDO-certified wheel: the five stages
of an artisan process unchanged for 900 years.
The production:
24 hours of art and milk
Every morning, within the first hours of the day, raw milk is poured into copper vats. From that moment, an artisan process begins that has remained essentially unchanged for over 900 years.
Parmigiano Reggiano is not manufactured — it is crafted. The cheesemaker reads the milk, feels the temperature by hand, judges coagulation by eye. No algorithm can replace this expertise, passed down from generation to generation.
every single day
Milk
Selection
Every wheel begins with raw cow's milk sourced exclusively from farms located within the PDO production zone: the provinces of Parma, Reggio Emilia, Modena, Bologna (west of the River Reno) and Mantova (east of the River Po). Selected farms follow strict feeding standards: the diet is based on fresh or preserved natural forages, hay, beet pulp and cereals. Silage maize is explicitly excluded by the PDO specification.
Natural
Skimming
Each evening, fresh whole milk from the afternoon milking is poured into wide, shallow vats and left to rest overnight — approximately 8–12 hours. The cream, being lighter, rises spontaneously to the surface with no mechanical intervention: no centrifuge, no additives. The following morning the cream is skimmed off by hand, yielding a partially skimmed milk with a balanced fat content, ideal for Parmigiano Reggiano production.
Union of the Milks
& Preparation
In the morning, the partially skimmed milk from the previous evening's natural creaming is combined with the whole milk from the morning milking. The blend — approximately 550 litres per vat — is poured into the traditional bell-shaped copper vats, the beating heart of the Ferrarini & Bonetti dairy since 1972. Copper ensures even heat distribution and promotes the natural development of lactic acid bacteria.
Starting the
Transformation
The cheesemaker adds the natural whey starter: a whey rich in live thermophilic lactic acid bacteria, kept from the previous day's production. This natural starter is the dairy's "DNA" — each caseificio develops its own unique culture over time. Animal rennet from calf is then added. No artificial enzymes, no preservatives: the PDO specification explicitly forbids them.
Birth
of the Curd
In 10–12 minutes the milk coagulates, forming a uniform gelatinous mass. The cheesemaker then uses the spino — a traditional sphere-shaped tool with spikes — to break the curd into microscopic granules the size of a grain of rice. This fragmentation is essential: it determines the granular structure unique to Parmigiano Reggiano and promotes the expulsion of whey from the curd.
Cooking
The curd granules are slowly cooked in the copper vat, reaching 54–55 °C over approximately 10 minutes (the PDO specification sets the maximum at 56 °C). At this temperature the granules dehydrate, compact and sink to the bottom of the vat, forming a dense, pasty mass — the future wheel of Parmigiano Reggiano. The residual whey remains in the vat: it will be used for yoghurt and for the next day's whey starter.
Extraction
With expert and powerful movements, the cheesemaker plunges linen cloths into the vat and lifts the entire curd mass settled on the bottom — a weight of approximately 80 kilograms. The mass is divided exactly into two equal parts and wrapped in separate cloths, supported by a wooden pole resting across the vat. From each vat come two twin wheels: a moment of extraordinary physicality and artisan precision.
Moulding
& Identity
Each wheel is placed into a rigid plastic mould that gives it the characteristic cylindrical shape. In the first 24 hours the mould embosses on the rind the dotted marking with the words "PARMIGIANO REGGIANO" repeated around the entire circumference, together with the dairy number, the province of production, and the month and year of manufacture. A casein plaque with a sequential number guarantees unique traceability for every individual wheel.
Salting
The wheels are immersed in tanks of saturated brine — a solution of water and salt (NaCl) — for approximately 20–22 days. Salt penetrates slowly from the outside inward by natural osmosis, never reaching the heart of the wheel. This process imparts the right savouriness, contributes to rind formation and acts as a natural preservative, eliminating the need for any chemical additive.
The wheel is born.
Now its journey through time begins.
After salting, every wheel enters the ageing warehouse. Here it will rest for at least 12 months — and often 24, 30 or 40 — before the Consortium judges it worthy of the fire-branded mark. It is the ageing that makes Parmigiano Reggiano what it is.
«Every morning the milk arrives at the dairy. Every evening a wheel is born. Nothing has changed in 50 years.»— Giorgio Ferrarini, cheesemaker since 1972
Reggiano
History, key figures and identity of the king of Italian cheeses.
DiscoverReggiano
PDO characteristics, specification, provinces and nutritional values.
DiscoverFrom raw milk to wheel: 24 hours of artisan craft in the copper vat.
You are here18, 30, 40 months: time transforms the cheese into a masterpiece.
DiscoverSight, smell, taste and touch: the sensory profile for each aging stage.
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